Fades are a cool trendy haircut which have been around for a while. We have covered taper fade, mid fade, and low fade so far. Now we are moving towards more extreme variants of the fade like the skin fade haircut, also known as zero fade or bald fade. This hairstyle is versatile, clean, and sharp. Hence, it suits a variety of hair types and lengths. Hanzo’s expert guide will cover everything which we need to know about cutting a skin fade haircut. We will also talk about the various tools involved in the process and how you can achieve the optimum finish.
What is a Skin Fade Haircut?
A skin fade hairstyle is the one in which the sides gradually taper and back down to the skin. This helps in creating a seamless transition between the longer and the bald segments at the base. For this reason, the skin fade haircut is also known as the zero fade or bald fade. The skin can start high on the head (high fade), mid-way (mid fade), or near the ears (low fade). Regardless of where the haircut starts, if it ends with a bald segment, it will be called a skin or zero fade haircut.
Who Should Opt for this Style?
The skin fade hairstyle is ideal for someone who seeks a clean, sharp, and versatile look. It is a low-maintenance hairstyle requiring minimal styling. The hairstyle also complements various top styles like pompadours, quiffs, and buzz cuts. It is a great choice for individuals who love to experiment with hair – a popular style in the special forces and professional domains alike.
Tools Needed
For pulling off a clean haircut, you will be needing the following tools:
- Clippers with various guard sizes
- Straight Razor
- Comb
- Point cutting and texturizing shears
- Hair products (for finishing and styling)
Step by Step Guide – From Pre-Cut Discussion to Post-Cut Styling
We have divided the haircut into various discrete areas including consultation, preparation, clipper work, blending, top styling and so on. The following section will discuss each of the stages involved in the skin fade haircut:
1. Consultation
Begin with a consultation to understand the client’s preferences. Discuss the type of fade (high, mid, low) and how they want the top styled.
2. Preparation
- Clean and Dry Hair: Wash the hair to remove any product and make it easier to cut.
- Cape Up: Place the cape around the client to keep hair off their clothes.
- Sectioning: Use a comb to separate the top section of the hair from the sides and back.
3. Clipper Work
- Choose the Starting Point: Depending on whether it’s a high, mid, or low fade, start cutting with the longest guard.
- Initial Cut: Begin at the base and work upwards, moving the clippers in a rocking motion. This helps to blend the hair smoothly.
- Gradual Reduction: Change to shorter guards as you move up the head. For a high fade, start with a longer guard (e.g., #2) at the bottom and gradually switch to shorter guards (e.g., #1, then #0). Remember that a skin fade will always end with a #0 guard.
- Skin Portion: Use no guard to create the skin portion of the fade. Hold the skin taut (taut means tightly held) to get a smooth finish.
4. Blending
- Detailing: Use trimmers to clean up any lines and ensure a seamless blend between different lengths. The Hanzo Trimmer is an excellent option which comes with a 6000 rpm motor. These trimmers are one of the best available in the market with the “Zero Cut” steel blades that stay in shape for a long time. Also, these trimmers can run for up to 5 hours on continuous operation.
- Comb and Scissors: Use a comb and scissors to trim any uneven parts and blend the top with the sides.
5. Top Styling
- Scissor Cut: If the client wants the top trimmed, use a point cutting shear, like the HH1 Kamikaze, to cut to the desired length. The HH1 Kamikaze has a wide blade and exaggerated radius which allows dry slide cutting. These shears are ideal for stylists who do a lot of dry finishing and top-detail work.
- Texture and Shape: Create texture using point cutting or thinning shears.
- Blending: Blend the top into the sides using scissors over comb technique for a smooth transition.
6. Edging and Finishing Touches
- Hairline: Use a straight razor to define the hairline and around the ears. Hanzo Straight Razor HHRZSR is a stainless steel straight razor with silicon resin handle designed specifically for stylists and barbers. The razor comes with a spring-mounted clamp mechanism that holds the blade in place and allows for excellent maneuverability. Hanzo also offers disposable HH RAZSB Straight Blades that are the perfect accessory for stylists and barbers.
- Neckline: Create a clean neckline by shaving down to the skin.
7. Clean Up
- Brush Off: Use a brush to remove any loose hair from the client’s face and neck.
- Apply Products: Finish with hair products to style the top as desired. Pomade or wax can add texture and hold.
Maintenance and Styling Tips
The skin fade haircut is probably the easiest hairstyle to deliver but will require some periodic maintenance to keep it fresh. To keep the skin fresh, you will be needing a touch-up every 3 weeks or so, depending upon your hair growth. Choose products based on the hair type. For fine hair, use lightweight products; for thicker hair, opt for stronger hold products.
Dos and Don’ts of Skin Fade Haircut
Dos
As a hairstylist, it is your responsibility to communicate with the client and understand which fade depth they are aiming for. Use quality hair products for a precise cut. Harsh lines are a big no – one should be careful to not allow any harsh lines while transitioning. Suggest the client to visit every 3-4 weeks to ensure the client’s skin fade haircut looks sharp.
Don’ts
This is one haircut which simply can’t be rushed. Avoid rushing through the haircut else it will result in uneven fades and mistakes. A harsh line can be spotted from a mile and look ugly. Never skin the consultation session and get a clear idea about the fade depth. When using sharp blades, avoid pulling hair and creating uneven cuts. Pay attention to the hairline, neckline, and areas around the ears for a clean finish.
How to Cut Skin Fade for Different Hair Types
Cutting a skin fade varies with hair type, each requiring specific techniques for the best results:
Straight Hair
- Straight hair is easiest for a skin fade due to its smooth texture.
- Start with a longer guard and work down to shorter guards. Use a comb for even cutting and blend the top into the sides carefully, as harsh lines are more noticeable.
- Detail trimmers and a straight razor ensure clean edges.
Wavy Hair
- Wavy hair adds dimension but requires more attention.
- Start with a longer guard to account for volume and texture.
- Follow the hair growth direction to avoid uneven patches.
- Blend using a comb and scissors, and enhance waves with a texturizing product.
Curly Hair
- Curly hair is challenging due to its texture and density.
- Begin with a longer guard and gradually work down.
- Use a comb to lift and trim curls evenly.
- Carefully blend and define the hairline and neckline, using curl-enhancing products to maintain shape.
Coarse Hair
- Coarse hair, often found in Afro-textured hair, needs a different approach due to its thickness.
- Start with the longest guard, decreasing gradually.
- Ensure an even cut with slow, steady motions and extra blending time.
- Detail trimmers and a straight razor help achieve a clean finish, while moisturizing products keep hair soft.
Hanzo Shear Sets to Watch Out For
For those looking to achieve a perfect skin fade haircut, precision and control are key. The Hanzo Complete Swivel Set is an excellent choice for this task. This set includes four ergonomic shears: the HH6S Kime Swivel for versatile cutting, the HH1S Kamikaze Swivel, the HH313T Hanashi Aru Swivel Texturizer, and the HH3T Hayaku Swivel Texturizer. These tools provide the precision and ease needed for various styling techniques, making it easier to achieve a seamless skin fade with detailed texturizing.
Another suitable option is the Hanzo Barber Battle Set, which consists of four specialized shears tailored for barbering techniques. It includes the HHCW Karu, HHP Pai Mei, HH6T Kime Texturizer, and HH40T Mazeru Texturizer. These shears are designed for versatility, allowing barbers to execute precise cuts and blends essential for a flawless skin fade. With these tools, barbers can ensure smooth transitions and sharp lines, which are crucial for this haircut style.
Conclusion
The skin fade haircut, also known as the zero fade or bald fade, is a timeless and versatile style that offers a clean and sharp look. This guide has covered the essentials of cutting a skin fade, from understanding what a skin fade is to detailed step-by-step instructions and considerations for different hair types. We also discussed the necessary tools and provided maintenance and styling tips to keep your fade looking fresh.
A skin fade suits various hair types and lengths, making it a popular choice for anyone seeking a low-maintenance yet stylish appearance. Whether you prefer a high, mid, or low fade, mastering this haircut can elevate your grooming skills and offer clients or yourself a sophisticated and modern hairstyle. With the right tools and techniques, you can achieve a seamless and professional skin fade that complements any look.
Be sure to check Hanzo’s complete range of professional shears for best results.
