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face framing layers
Hattori Hanzo Shears

Layers vs Face Framing Layers – What’s Better?

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Professional hairstylists are aware that layers and face framing are two of the hottest hairstyles for 2024. You will also have clients asking you for either a layered haircut or requesting you for face framing. Ever wondered why these two techniques are so popular? These two techniques are universally popular for their robustness – they can be used in almost all haircuts and can help a hairstylist achieve maximum customer satisfaction by giving your client the best hairstyling experience possible. 

Hairstyling Quiz – What are Layers?

what are layers in hair

Creating layers is an excellent way to add volume and make the hair appear bouncier than they actually are. In this technique, the hairstylist cuts the hair at different lengths from the top of the head to the bottom which results in an attractive inconsistency. This technique helps remove the weight and enable the hairstylist to create some movement. If the haircut does not have any layers, all the hair will appear the same length which is not quite as attractive. Let’s suppose all the hair are the same length, the hair would lack movement. 

There are many different types of layers that can be added to the hair to create different variations, depending upon the client’s taste. If you are simply after some volume, hairstylists can cut short layers. These short layers will be short closer to the root of the hair and the top of the hair will be lighter. Blunt cuts can often create the triangle look that can be avoided by using short layers. Then we have long hair which can help create a soft look without taking away the shape. Choppy layers are another variation which add asymmetrical, layered portions to create a blunt, edgy texture. Choppy layers can be achieved using different texturizing techniques. 

Experienced hair stylists understand that different face shapes and hair types call for different layering techniques. If someone’s got really thick and heavy hair, they are better off having more layers compared to people with weak hair. A person with curly hair would look much nicer if the hairstylist can give the curls some more bounce. People with super straight hair can have some invisible layers that prevent sharp lines. Long wavy hair can often require a few layers to help create soft loose waves. For professional hairstylists, it is a good idea to have a pre-cut consultation session and learn what look the client is after. This simple step will ensure greater client satisfaction.    

Whichever technique you use, you will be needing an excellent pair of haircutting and texturizing shears. For the best quality hairstyling shears, try the Hanzo Complete Swivel Set which comes with 4 top of the line hairstyling shears: (1) the HH1S Kamikaze Swivel, (2) HH6S Kime Swivel, (3) the HH313T Hanashi Aru Swivel, and (4) the HH3T Hayaku.      

How to Cut Layers

Cutting layers can be quite straightforward if you got the right tools and the right experience. When cutting layers, you can start by cutting guidelines and create a rough perimeter for the haircut. Different hair stylists prefer different shear lengths but it is recommended to go for something which is between 5.0 to 5.5 inches. For cutting layers, ideally we recommend the HH1S Kamikaze Swivel paired with the HH313T Hanashi Aru Swivel. However, if these two shears do not meet your specific hairstyling needs, we have got plenty more shears in our extensive shear catalog.  

Different techniques are required while cutting different types of layers. For instance, you are cutting really long layers. You would need to section hair and direct each section up, then snip. Similarly, when a hairstylist is cutting short hair, the angle of fingers will determine how short the layers will be or how many layers will be added. Some hairstylists dry cut after cutting layers for added texture. These subtle changes can not only soften the lines but also help blend the layers really well. Hairstylists can use other techniques like point and slide cut to achieve softer, sometimes more voluminous looks.    

What is Face Framing? Understanding the Face Frame

understanding face framing layers

Face Framing technique involves the strategic placement of short layers around the face to make it appear softer. This technique can be quite flattering as it can help accentuate the best features. A proper face frame can go as far as giving the illusion of more defined cheekbones. Oval shaped faces are optimum for this technique however rectangular and square faces can equally benefit as well.

For oval shaped faces, the technique works particularly well as these faces are more symmetrical compared to other face shapes. Curtain bangs can be implemented for elongated faces. For people with heart shaped faces, the long face framing layers are more optimum. Wispy bangs are also an excellent choice that help balance out the larger forehead with the narrow chin. This will help create a sense of balance. Wispy bangs can also be implemented for square face and even side swept bangs can appear quite decent. However, it is not advised to perform face framing on round faces. 

How to Cut a Face Frame?

how to cut face frame haircut

Cutting the face frame is quite simple and employs a technique known as slide cutting. Hanzo recommends using HH1 Kamikaza Dry Slide Cutting Shears for optimum results. Slide cutting can be performed by sliding down the hair while the blades are partially open. This technique is performing a texturizing function as the volume is removed and can also be used to blend shorter lengths to longer. In simpler words, the slide cutting technique can be used to thin hair in a graduated manner.    

Which Style to Choose and When?

To understand which style to use when, it is important to understand the factors at play which are as follows: 

  • What would look good on the client? 
  • What is the current condition of the hair? 
  • What hairstyle can be realistically performed that will actually look good? 

Per-cut consultation session can be quite beneficial as it can help the hairstylist and the client on the same page. This ensures optimum customer satisfaction. Summing up, it is the job of a stylist to help make the client make an informed decision. Knowing the difference between various techniques and knowing the right tools can be quite beneficial.  

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